A good first layer — even, well-squished, and stuck down — is the foundation of every successful print, and most print failures start here. Fix the first layer with correct bed levelling, the right nozzle-to-bed gap, adequate bed temperature, a clean surface, and slow first-layer speed. Here is the complete checklist.
Key Takeaways
- The first layer determines adhesion, accuracy, and finish for the whole part.
- Level the bed and set the nozzle gap precisely (paper/auto-level).
- Clean the bed — grease kills adhesion.
- Use the right bed temperature for the material; slow the first layer.
- "Elephant''s foot" means the gap is too small or bed too hot.
What does a good first layer look like?
Lines should be slightly flattened and fused side-to-side with no gaps and no transparent over-squish. Too high and lines are round and barely stuck; too low and they smear or the nozzle scrapes. Most first-layer faults are one of these two extremes.
The first-layer checklist
| Check | Symptom if wrong |
|---|---|
| Bed level | Good on one side, bad on other |
| Nozzle gap | Not sticking / smearing |
| Bed temperature | Corners lift |
| Clean surface | Patchy adhesion |
| First-layer speed | Poor squish if too fast |
What is "elephant''s foot"?
A bulged, splayed first layer — caused by too small a gap or too hot a bed squashing the base. Fix by raising the nozzle slightly, lowering bed temp, or enabling a small first-layer compensation. It matters when the base must fit precisely.
When to outsource
If first-layer fiddling is costing you prints, Layer X''s industrial machines hold consistent first layers automatically and ship dimensionally accurate parts to ±50 µm. Get a quote.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my first layer good in the middle but bad at edges?
The bed isn''t level/flat — re-level or use auto bed levelling/mesh compensation.
What bed surface is best?
PEI, glass, or textured sheets each suit different materials — see finishing for surface effects.